Tuesday, 25 September 2007

Meeting a Mentor

Having been the first student to meet my mentor and having never been to a true Brit’s home, I was a bit nervous traveling to Laura and Mark’s and unsure of what to expect. However, I quickly felt comfortable after being welcomed into their flat. The apartment was not what I thought a London flat would look like. It was a beautiful, spacious living room full of warm colors and a modern kitchen. I found out that the building was originally a cork warehouse, and they remodeled the place in 1995. The best part definitely was the terrace and roof top view. The Eye was on my left, the Tower of London was straight ahead of me, and Canary Wharf was on my right; it gave me a great perspective on just how windy the Thames really is.
After my tour around the flat, I was able to sit down and learn about the daily lives of Laura and Mark and how they came to live in London. I wondered how an American could be allowed to live in London for so long before being married to a Brit. Laura explained how she was granted an 18 month journalism visa and never ended up leaving. She now does investment journal writing, and her husband works at Bloomberg. It was fascinating to hear of people with real jobs that allow them to travel around Europe and made me hope that I may one day have a job that allows me to travel as well.
As Laura has been in the UK for over fifteen years and Mark has lived in England his whole life, both had great advice for places to visit in London and around Europe. They stressed the importance of traveling to off the map places in order to get a real feel of the culture. They also suggested not visiting the main tourist cities because they have lost a lot of their history and are dominated by Starbucks and McDonalds. This information made me rethink my plans for fall break, and I may now go to some remote towns instead of strictly visiting the typical cities. By doing this I hope to have great conversations with native citizens and unforgettable experiences in the true atmosphere of a country.
One of the most interesting parts of the nights was discussing topics such as politics and the Greek system after dinner. Mark and his Swiss friend were eager to hear who I was going to vote for in the upcoming election, and they had their own strong opinions such as Guiliani having too shaky of a past and Hilary being a much stronger candidate than people think. As the night continued, the conversation moved on to college life. Since there is a strong connection between Bucknell and the Greek system, the topic inevitably was brought up, and Mark wanted to learn more about it. I explained the concepts of fraternities, sororities, housing, dues, and registers, and he was amazed that such a system could legally exist. He attended Cambridge and swore that students never would have agreed to take part in such an establishment. However, I attempted to explain the wide range of fraternities and sororities for all types of people and the various commitment levels of members, but I do understand how ludicrous it may look from an outsiders view.
Looking back on the evening made me realize that I have not spent enough time getting to know the people of London and need to separate from the Bucknell group more often. The experience proved to be one of the best nights I have had so far, and I am extremely happy that Bucknell set up this program. It also made me realize that Americans can establish happy, successful lives in other countries and I am now considering spending more time abroad. Hopefully I can meet up with Laura and Mark again while I am here and learn even more about everyday London life!

Sunday, 23 September 2007

Hampton Court Palace

The grounds of Hampton Court Palace were awe-inspiring just as they would have been to visitors during the reign of Henry VIII. It was first leased by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, Chief Minister to the King, and remodeled in the Tudor architecture; however, Henry VIII took over the palace after Wolsey fell out of favor and proceeded to alter the original design. Although many other Kings and Queens have lived at, added on to, and remodeled sections of Hampton Court Palace, it stands as a testament to the life and actions of Henry VIII.
Upon hearing the name of Henry VIII, everyone inevitably thinks of the saying “divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived” which has caused this English King to be viewed as one of the most notorious rulers. He began his long list of wives by marrying his brother’s widow, Catherine of Aragon. However, the fact that they had 24 years of a reasonably happy marriage is often over looked by the public. The scandal began when Catherine could only provide Henry with a daughter, Mary, and not a son to take over the throne. When it became clear that Catherine could no longer have children, and Henry VIII sought an annulment from Rome.
At the same time, Henry began to desire Anne Boleyn, which only added to his notoriety. She came from a newly wealthy family and was trained in the French court. In time she gave birth to a daughter, Elizabeth, and a dead male son. Due to her inability to produce a son, Henry decided to behead her on account of treason, adultery, and incest. His basis was that she was a witch and used her powers to marry him. This undoubtedly shocked the people, but Henry continued to marry in hopes of an heir. He was finally successful with his third wife, Jane Seymour, who gave birth to a son, Edward. She unfortunately died in child birth, and Edward was sick throughout most of his life.
After the death of Seymour, Henry married Anne of Cleves. She was a politically motivated individual who spoke her mind; however, she was not very attractive, and this caused Henry to be disgusted by her. He called for an annulment, and she accepted it for death may have been the only other option. Henry next moved on to Catherine Howard who was a beautiful woman with several lovers before and possibly while married to Henry VIII. This resulted in her death and a final wife, Katherine Parr. She was a very intelligent woman with Protestant views who helped make Mary and Elizabeth legitimate. She tended to her husband’s needs and was the only wife to survive him. The quick change in wives combined with Henry’s deteriorating looks as he became ill caused him to be viewed as a notorious English ruler.
Henry VIII is also looked upon as one of the most important ruler in that he ushered in the modern English state. Much can be said for this as he began the English Reformation by breaking from Roman Catholicism. He is responsible for the dissolution of the monasteries, and the changing of land from the church to the gentry. This action helped him create a loyal base of people who would support him in all of his political moves. He bolstered the role of the government and wanted to be taken as seriously as the other European powers. This caused him to invite all the countries in Western Europe and even Russia to sign the Treaty of London in 1518. This stated that the nations would not attack each other and aid others if one were attacked and ultimately helped to protect England from the Ottoman Empire. He also threw lavish parties to impress the rest of Europe such as the Field of the Cloth of Gold. Furthermore, he encouraged political arguments and continually sought ways to increase his country’s power through alliances, meetings, and wars. One example is the unification of England and Wales under his reign.
He also established power within England by silencing those who opposed him. Henry put many monks and other dissenters to death, and this lead to an extremely strong and fearful view of the crown for years to come. His shaky personal life can also be attributed to his desire to build a strong state as many of his marriages were arranged for political purposes. Such is so with his marriage to Anne of Cleves which was established to create an alliance with Germany even though he had a strong dislike for the woman.
However, it should be noted that he was not very interested in politics at first and was more concerned with his social life. This is because he was never intended to be King but was pushed into the role after the death of his brother. He also did not intend to start the English Reformation for purely religious reasons but instead for political reasons. Henry was obsessed with producing an heir to the throne and breaking from Rome was the only way to achieve this goal. He still kept many of his Catholic views and beliefs and never fully embraced Protestantism.
Henry VIII’s father, Henry VII, experienced a much calmer reign that has been coined a time of peace and prosperity. There were many years of civil war before he came into power which economically wiped out England. His chancellor came up with a scheme of heavy taxation that became known as “Morton’s Fork” because both the rich and the poor could not escape it. The basis was the rich had so much money that they could afford to pay taxes and the poor could pay taxes with their savings. He also supported trade with other countries and subsidized ship building for the navy to secure his power on the throne. Money was not wasted on fighting wars as Henry VIIs’ reign consisted mostly of political peace.
Apart from his personal and political life, many developments in modern science, technology, and economics can be attributed to Henry VIII as well. He encouraged exploration throughout the world, and many discoveries were made during his reign. He also surrounded himself with intelligent, scholarly people which undoubtedly influenced his actions. His dissolution of the monasteries also changed the economic structure and gave the middle class more power. In addition, he too encouraged trade which resulted in the acquisition of much money and substantial increase in the navy; however, he also spent large amounts and managed to deplete the £1.5 million treasury his father built.

Sunday, 16 September 2007

Ireland

The Republic of Ireland was much different than what I had imagined. From the minute I stepped out of the airplane and onto the runway, I knew my experience here would be different from life in the UK. It was also my first time attempting to get from an airport to a city center on my own, and I was surprised at how easy the task was accomplished. However, life in the hostel for the next two days proved to be anything but easy.
The first problem developed when the staff would not accept credit cards due to an internet problem and they required full cash payment before they would give us room keys. After that problem was handled, I began walking to my room and was disgusted at the dirtiness of the place. The sixteen bed dorm was not any better as it had no windows and required a 2.00 euro charge for use of a blanket or towel. The bathrooms were equally dirty and simple amenities such as hand soap were not even provided. The experience of living in such a place showed me the wide range of hostels available and taught me to better research hostels in the future.
The city of Dublin was more inviting and exciting than the hostel. The Dublin Castle was much smaller than I expected and changed my views on what is considered a castle. However, the interior was simply gorgeous and filled with much history of the area. I also visited Christ Church which is where the city of Dublin began and an original Viking settlement still exists today although it is several feet below ground. These old, historical attractions fit in well with the quaint feeling of the city; however, some modern structures did not fit so well. One example is the Spire, a very tall point made out of stainless steel which was created for the millennium. While it is an impressive structure, it does not keep with the traditional theme of the city.
One tradition that the Irish seemed extremely proud of was their Guinness! Everywhere I looked I could see a Guinness advertisement, so it was only fitting to take a trip to the factory. The factory was seven interactive levels where I learned about the beer making process and the history of Guinness. The tour ended in a bar with a 360° view of Dublin and the essential free pint! The experience was a lot of fun, but it did not compare to the exciting atmosphere of Grafton Street. I was enthralled with the endless blocks of shops and took a couple hours contributing to the Irish GDP.
In the end, I once again found that the people prove to be the best part about traveling. Most people I met were extremely friendly and thrilled to talk about their great country. However, I had a conversation with a man about the change in currency to the euro, and he was not so happy with this conversion. He believed that the price of many goods drastically increased because a profit could be made, and the government did not step in to fix this problem as they promised they would. It was interesting to hear other people’s negative opinions about their government’s actions. The two days I spent exploring the historical and cultural aspects of the city were a time that I will never forget, but I would like to visit the countryside of Ireland in future travels to observe the different lifestyles of the Irish citizens.

Ironbridge Gorge

The trip began by visiting Blists Hill Victoria Town and seeing how a town may have looked at the beginning of the industrial revolution. This town was created to preserve the history of the industrial revolution, and many buildings, equipment, and artifacts are from the original time period. When I first entered the town, there was a sweet shop, old fashioned pub, butcher, pharmacist, and many other stores that helped take you back in time. However, my favorite stop on the tour was the shop where liquid metal would be molded into various decorative objects. It was interesting to see that they used sand to press the shape into the metal and more astonishing to think they did not use any protective gear while performing these dangerous jobs!
The town’s industry was clearly centered on iron, which could be made for a fraction of the price due to the new technology of smelting coke. This town proved to be an excellent location for making iron due to its closeness to the river, and the last ice age left clay, coal, and limestone all over the area. A canal was created to provide transport within the coal fields and made the process of moving heavy material much more efficient. Coal could be brought down the canal into large blast furnaces or taken to the Hay incline plane.
The tour guide challenged the class to find a way to get the coal from the canal to the Severn River some 100 yards below. For much of the walk, I pondered how such a task could be completed and was unable to think of a solution. This same challenge was presented to the people of the 18th century, but one person’s solution stood out from the rest of the competition. I was amazed to see how simple yet ingenious the winning method of the incline plane was. Without this system, 27 canal locks would be needed over a period of 3 hours to lower the coal; however, the hay incline plane allowed this to be completed in four minutes. The push and pull system took basic elements of physics and applied them in a practical way. Although it was a great idea, technology constantly improves and the hay incline plane along with the canal was deemed inefficient after the introduction of the railway.
Numerous houses were restored or brought to this location to portray the standard of living at the Victorian times. It was very clever for the toll collector to be given a nicer house as an incentive to be honest and deliver all the money he collected to the government. It was clear to see the life style distinctions between the toll house and the rudimentary squatter cottage; the squatters had one day to erect a residence and claim the area as their own. The schoolhouse also shed light on the drastically different beliefs the Victorians held. For example, they believed that each child should have 60 cubic ft of air so they created schoolhouses with high ceilings and tall buildings. They did not, however, take into account that warm air rises and the children in the back of the room were left to freeze in the cold winter months.
The canal system also helped spur the development of other businesses, such as Coalport China Works. Ironbridge was the most industrialized area during the industrial revolution, and even china making changed into mass production. This are was an optimal location due to its large amounts of coal, cattle, and water. The canal was a vital form of transportation because the 18th century roads were too rocky to transport the delicate china. The business began in 1796 by John Rose, and his brother bought another factory shortly after. They aided and competed with each other; however, Rose eventually bought his brother out and turned his business into one of the most famous porcelain factories in the world.
Before visiting the China Museum, I did not have much of an appreciation for the art form. However, I learned of the time, effort, and skills required in making just one piece and now understand why it is viewed as a luxury. The process begins by the grotesque task of cleaning animal bones and firing them in the oven. These bones are used for their whiteness, strength, and the artists performed this material. The mixture consisted of 50% animal bone and 25% each of china clay and china stone. New techniques emerged during the revolution which sped up the china making process that allowed works to create 800 pieces a day as opposed to the earlier 80. Much precision was also needed in the creation of china, and the kiln had to be 1250 °C for the optimal product. The fireman used “buller rings” which shrank by 10% when fired correctly to gauge the temperature. It makes much sense that this occupation was the highest paid because he also had the highest amount of responsibility. However, I was surprised to learn the meaning of “they broke the mold when they made you.” This derives from the master mold carpenters would use to make china, and they would destroy it after a piece was discontinued.
While it was fascinating to reflect on the elaborate techniques involved in the beautiful art form, it was saddening to hear of the working conditions for the employees. Potters had a much shorter lifespan than the rest of the population due to the massive amount of dust and glaze which contained arsenic and lead. Many lady painters also had lead poisoning from licking the brushes, and their artistic discretion was taken away when industrialization instituted painting by numbers. Heavy saggers also had to be carried on the heads of men causing them to bring in their wives stockings for extra cushion under their hats. I gained much respect for the people and the physical and mental stress they had to endure to make a living.
On the other hand, it was nice to hear about how the Quakers treated and provided for each other. Having grown up in Philadelphia, I had a basic knowledge of the Quaker religion and was surprised to learn that Abraham Darby was a Quaker as well. Furthermore, I come from the town of Upper Darby, which was established by Quakers causing me to wonder if there is any relation between the man and the town name. The Quakers focus on peace and equality between all people but were limited to what jobs they could take because they were considered religious dissenters. They were excluded from occupations such as doctors and soldiers; therefore, much focus was put onto commerce and industry. This along with their belief in a lot of education pushed the Quakers to become extremely innovative. The wealthy were not as creative because they could just sit back and collect money without much hard work.
Abraham Darby kick started the industrial revolution by successfully using coke in the smelting of iron. He bought an old furnace in Coalbrookedale, and generations after him continued to use this facility throughout the industrial revolution. Coke came from a local coal and replaced charcoal making the process much cheaper and faster. This led to the wide scale production of iron, which was poured into sheets known as pig iron because it resembled a mother pig with four piglets. Abraham II next used the steam engine which increased the production of iron. He also spent 6 days experimenting with different amounts of limestone and coal to produce a type of iron that could be easily used for wrought iron.
Obviously, the trip to Ironbridge would not have been complete without a visit to the Ironbridge that Abraham Darby III built in 1779. Everybody thought it was an insane idea at the time of its creation until a massive flood swept all the other bridges away a few years later. However, it is understandable that people may have been hesitant to accept the bridge because it is human nature to be skeptical of new ideas. It is still unclear exactly how the bridge was erected, but many ideas have surfaced, and the BBC recently did a program in which they attempted to build a replica at Blists Hill Town. The economic challenges for footing the bill of such a structure is equally difficult as the technological feats. Darby believed it would cost £3200 and agreed to pay any extra costs. Unfortunately, he forgot to include the cost of labor and spent the rest of his life attempting to pay off the extra £3000. Although he did not make sound financial decisions, Darby’s creation still stands today as a testament to the industrial revolution and the amazing possibility of new, innovative ideas.
The final stop on our excursion was the Museum of Iron which gave a great history from the first uses of iron to modern day applications. The first floor showed how the Darby family made iron production cheaper and quicker with their new ideas. It was interesting to see how the technology progressed, but even more stimulating to see the great masterpieces from the Great Exhibition of 1851 on the second floor. The exhibition was originally held in Hyde Park and used to showcase the endless possibilities for which iron could be used. Everything from detailed chairs to large dogs was cast in iron for people of every class to admire. Looking at these beautiful pieces made me wish I could go back in time and experience the exhibition how it was intended to be viewed. The world saw lots of industries shut down between 1912 and the 1950’s, and unfortunately, this Coalbrookedale area experienced many closures; however, people had the foresight to preserve the past and the Iron Bridge Gorge Museum was opened to the public in 1973.
The information presented above shows how Hobsbawn’s statement of the industrial revolution being acceleration of growth through and of economic and social transformation stands true. For example, the industrial revolution is largely due to the Quaker’s and their determination to succeed. They gained social power through industry because they were prohibited from entering certain sectors. The people of the time were also focused on finding ways to economically produce goods. This lead to the invention of the canal, incline plane, and various methods of mass production.

Wednesday, 12 September 2007

Competition

Due to the location of Ironbridge, I thought it would be a great time to visit Wales and see how life is in a different part of the UK. Upon my arrival at Cardiff, I was unimpressed at the small scale of the city and the run-down neighbourhoods. I then realized that every hostel in the area contained the word “backpacker”, and I was unsure which place I booked. Fortunately, the local people were kind to a weary traveller and sent me in the right direction.
To my surprise, the hostel was still under construction as it had just opened two weeks ago. However, this did not bother me because the staff was so kind and helpful. They explained the situation, apologized for the appearance, and told me how they were just breaking into the market. I learned that one man owned the other hostels in Cardiff and could charge practically whatever he wished. The new hostel owners were determined to change this situation, and confided in me that the other hostel owner was very concerned about his business. This was a great example of supply and demand working in a real life situation; there was a demand for more hostel rooms at a lower price and someone stepped up to fill it.
While out in the town, I also learned of another form of competition existing throughout the UK. Many Welsh citizens felt the need to express their opinions on the English although I hardly even knew them. They would ramble on about how they were much better than the English in numerous areas (including football!) and hoped I would join them in their viewpoints. It was interesting to see how the rivalry was very similar to the competition between the east and west coasts in the States.
After my numerous conversations with Welsh citizens, my thoughts on the city of Cardiff changed dramatically. It proved to be my interactions with the people that made my trip one of the best experiences I have had so far, and not the fancy buildings or restaurants. I was able to have great conversations about the differences in our lifestyles and just about life in general. I hope I will have time to head back once more during my stay abroad to visit some of the great people I met.

Monday, 3 September 2007

Culture Shock

The American culture at first seemed almost identical to the British culture. We talk the same language, look fairly similar, and eat some of the same foods; however, I now know that may be where the similarities end. I met some British citizens and was excited to go out in a smaller group to learn more about the people here. Being invited to a pub for a true football game sounded very exciting, but the night turned out to be anything but.
The small pub was filled with men of all ages who were football enthusiasts, and they did not seem happy to have four American girls joining them. While I am very knowledgable in basketball, football, and hockey, soccer seemed to escape my sports education during my childhood, and I could not make one insightful comment about the game. The people who invited us even seemed embarrassed by our ignorance, and the night turned into an awkward situation. Although I was a bit frightened throughout the experience, I am glad that it happened because I realized just how different the UK and US are. The language masks the fact that this is a foreign country with completely different morals, beliefs, culture, and education.